
Middle Cross-Loser
Standard shot
This is one of the easier shots In Billiards and has quite a large margin for error. Nevertheless, for a successful outcome a good contact needs to be made with the object ball in order to achieve good position.
It is important to hit a thick half-ball to ensure that you get the shot consistently and also to ensure that most of the momentum from the cue ball is transferred to the red, which makes judging the pace of the red much easier.
The thicker you hit the red, the less pace you need for the shot. The idea is generally to bring the red for a middle pocket loser, although there are occasions that you may wish to play the shot slowly to leave a drop cannon. You can vary the path of the red by playing a slightly thicker or thinner contact and still get the shot, and you can also vary the path by using side, but remember that the thinner you contact the red the more pace you need to bring it up for a middle pocket loser, and this is much harder to judge. Furthermore, if you decide to play it thin and actually hit it thick, you may push the red into baulk. The shot itself has a very large margin for error and you can be quite a long way out and still get the shot.
The closer the cue ball is to the red the higher you should address the cue ball to avoid any stun effect. As you get very close to the red the natural angle is distorted and care must be taken to stand back to try to see the path the cue ball will take after contact with the red. The ideal line is from the middle pocket to the EDGE of the red.
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Wide loser
When the angle is slightly wide, use a small amount of running side to get the shot. This shot can be played with top and side as very little side is required when slightly wide. As the angle widens, more and more running side must be used. Although a slow pace will allow the side to work on the nap (after contact with the red), this is a difficult shot to judge as the cue ball will also turn significantly before hitting the red, so use a medium pace as for the standard shot. At a very wide position the shot requires about half of maximum running side and for this you will need to strike the cue ball at 4.30 (or 7.30). (With about half maximum side you get the maximum throw of the cue ball, so there is usually no benefit of using any more than half maximum side to widen the angle.) The effective size of the pocket becomes bigger (the side widens the pocket) and you can hit the top cushion and the cue ball will be spinning enough to then hit the top cushion jaw and spin in. The centre of the pocket effectively moves towards the top cushion.
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Narrow loser
When the angle is slightly narrow then use a bit of check side. As the angle narrows further, use more and more check side and you will need to strike low on the cue ball for this to get the side on. This shot should be played slightly slower than the standard middle cross loser to allow the side to work on the nap after contact with the red.
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Forcer
There comes a point when you can not get the shot with side alone. You now have to use pace and top to get the shot. You should judge the pace to allow the cue ball to arc back to the pocket. The red should go in and out of baulk for this shot, ideally to leave a middle pocket loser, but be sure to get it out of baulk. As the position gets wider you must use more pace. A touch of running side helps to widen the throw and also helps keep the red away from the side cushion. This shot can even be played from a very wide position when the cue ball is on a line from the baulk-line/side-cushion point to the edge of the red, but a lot of pace is required. At positions that require a lot of power, it is better not to use any side.
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Contact + Check Side
There comes a point that the shot can not be made with check side alone and now the shot changes and should be played thinner than a true half-ball, but still with maximum side on. Play this shot slowly and allow the side to work on the nap after contact with the red. Remember that although the shot requires a little more judgement when you put extreme side on, this is more than compensated by effectively widening the pocket. Eventually you will judge that the shot is not on and that a pot red is more certain.
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Standard shot
Set the cue ball near the middle pocket so that you are just not angled by the pocket jaw, and place the red on it's spot. The half-ball aim line is from the upper jaw of the middle pocket to the opposite outside edge of the red and the shot should be possible for a cue ball located anywhere along this line. Although the diagram shows the cue ball close to the middle pocket, you will probably find that it is much easier for you to make a bridge if the cue ball is moved about 16 inches (406 mm) away from the middle pocket (towards the red). Address above centre (with no side) and play a thick half ball . You should use a medium pace to bring the red towards the middle of the table to leave a middle pocket loser and it should take an approximate path that takes it past the middle spot on the opposite side of the table to where you are standing. Try the shot from different distances from the red but always along the same line from the middle pocket to the edge of the red. As you get closer to the red address higher on the cue ball to avoid the stun. As always, try the shot from both sides of the table.
Wide loser
Move the cue ball to about 3 inches (76 mm) wide of the standard position, lightly mark the position with a small chalk mark and try playing with running side. Continue widening the shot until you find your limit of the position that can be played with side alone. At the widest point you should be addressing the cue ball at 4.30 to get about half maximum running side on the cue ball and it is very important to hit a thick half ball. Repeat this from both sides of the table and remember the limit points.
Narrow loser
Repeat a similar practice pattern as for the last shot, but this time narrowing the shot and playing with check side. Again, learn your limits for making the shot. At the narrowest point you should be addressing the cue ball at 7.30 to get the maximum check side on the cue ball. At this stage, it is important to continue aiming for a thick half ball but as you become more proficient at half ball shots this particular shot can be played slightly thinner than the thick half ball.
Forcer
Set the cue ball too wide to make the shot with running side alone and play this shot with top. You can use a touch of running side if you wish, to help keep the red in the middle of the table. Play the red in and out of baulk. Experiment from various positions to see the limits from where you can make the shot. When the shot is very wide it is best not to use any side at all, just plenty of top to arc the cue ball into the pocket.
Practice Targets
| Beginner | 6/10 | Success rate for the standard middle cross loser will be reasonable at first and after practice you should rarely miss the shot. |
| Club Player | 9/10 | An average player will get most of their attempts and bring the red for a middle pocket loser about 9/10. |
| Professional | 10/10 | Top players will never miss the standard shot and are able to adjust the path of the red significantly. The success rate is still very high when away from the standard position, although control of the red is not guaranteed when the shot is very wide. |
Thin with check side
This thin loser with check side is quite a difficult shot. Play the shot at a slow pace to contact the red thinner than a thick half ball; a true half ball or even slightly thinner than this is the ideal contact. If you play the shot too slowly the cue ball will turn into the red and you will hit the red too thick. If you play the shot with too much pace the cue ball will not turn towards the pocket after contacting the red.
Remember
- Address above centre
- Play a thick half-ball
- No side
- Medium pace
Common Mistakes
- Hitting the red too thin.
- Not critiquing properly e.g. if the ball does not return far enough for a middle pocket loser the usual problem is too thin a contact and although more pace would produced the desired result, it is wrong to play thin and fast. The primary fault here would normally be the thin contact.
